Eat-Travel-Stay: Falling in love with Ranong City

"Ranong," a small coastal province in southern Thailand, is said to be a destination that requires intention. As a border town and a stopover point, travelers must make a conscious decision to visit Ranong. The province's popularity among tourists has grown in recent years, particularly with the increasing awareness of Koh Phayam and other nearby islands, including those off the coast of Myanmar. This surge in interest has led to the development of numerous new hotels and resorts.

I recently decided to embark on a 2-3 day trip to Ranong to explore its offerings firsthand. My itinerary included a 2-day island hopping adventure off the coast of Myanmar, followed by a day of exploring the town on a rented motorbike. This review will provide a comprehensive overview of my accommodation, sightseeing, and dining experiences throughout my stay.

Day 1 Review of the trip to Cockburn Island according to this thread Click

Day Two Review of the Trip to Koh Navop, according to this thread Click

My first stop is the accommodation. I stayed in Ranong city for two nights. As I was traveling alone, I needed to find affordable accommodation. I searched on Agoda and booked two places. Let's take a look.

Royal Phrajin Residence (Luang Phrajin Boutique Hostel)

Luang Phojn Boutique Hostel is a small boutique art hotel located on Rueang Ras Road in the heart of Ranong, in the old community of Bang Sian Market. The Sino-Portuguese style building tells the story of its past, from its beginnings as the first grocery store to the Charoen Suk Hotel, the largest accommodation for merchants and travelers in its time, and now to the "Luang Phojn House," which has been meticulously preserved. With 8 rooms and an expansion underway at the back, each room is decorated differently. Punnawich Sewatadul, the fifth-generation descendant of Luang Phojn Vichit Tandhachinna, has taken great care to decorate the boutique hostel with antiques. If you want to experience the old-world atmosphere, close to tourist attractions and a walking street on Saturdays and Sundays, you can stay here for only 600 baht when you book directly with the hotel.

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The accommodation is located on the second floor. There are two rooms with fans and the rest are air-conditioned. The bathrooms are shared.

The room I stayed in was a fan room located on the street side with an open window offering a view of the street. This room is suitable for early risers as it is not soundproof and will be awakened by the various vehicles passing by in the morning. The highlight of the hotel is its beautiful antique shophouse style, located in the heart of the city, close to many food and restaurant options. It is conveniently located and has a walking street in front of the hotel on Saturdays and Sundays.

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Nalin Place

Another budget hotel to recommend is located on Tha Mueang Road, continuing from Rueang Rat Road, not far from Luang Pho Chin. This hotel resembles an apartment, with spacious and comfortable rooms. The view from the back of the room is a beautiful mountain. Even though it is a fan room, it does not feel hot. The highlight is the cheap price of only 400 baht, bookable through Agoda. It is also close to the market, making it easy to find food.

Arabian flatbread

This is an Islamic restaurant located in the lower market, opposite the Gala Hotel in Mueang district. The menu offers a wide variety of dishes, including roti mataba, beef curry, chicken curry, chicken biryani, fried chicken, porridge, tea, and coffee. Everything looks delicious, but my stomach can only hold so much. The restaurant is open from 6:30 AM to 4:30 PM. This was my first meal in Ranong after getting off the bus and taking a motorcycle taxi to the restaurant.

The curry shop opposite the bank, across from the Luang Pho Chin house.

This unnamed roadside curry shop is located at the three-way intersection opposite the Luang Pho Chin Residence. Locals call it the "Curry Shop Opposite the Bank" because the left side of the shop is adjacent to Krung Thai Bank, while the right side is next to the Islam Ocha Restaurant. The shop opens early in the morning. During my stay at the Luang Pho Chin Residence, I frequented this curry shop for breakfast on the third day. The food is local cuisine, and the flavors may not be as strong as in other southern provinces I have tried, but the taste is still good for those who do not like spicy food.

Nisa Roti Shop

Another Famous Restaurant in Ranong: Roti Nisara

This restaurant is located about 13 kilometers outside of Ranong city center, near the Ban Hongaw fresh market on Prachaphithak Road. It's open from 8:00 AM to 1:00 PM and is close to the Ya Grass Mountain.

I arrived at the restaurant around noon after exploring the area, but unfortunately, most of the food was already sold out. The staff recommended trying their plain roti with a fried egg and offered me some leftover curry sauce from the bottom of the pot. This was a unique combination I had never tried before, but it turned out to be delicious. I also bought some of their fried chicken, which paired well with the roti.

The roti was incredibly crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, unlike anything I've had before. The leftover curry sauce was also flavorful. Despite arriving late and missing out on most of the menu, the staff was incredibly kind and even gave me two free frozen roti doughs to take home. I'm grateful for their hospitality and will definitely return next time to try more of their offerings.

Farmhouse Restaurant

Another place I would like to recommend is a restaurant at the Farmhouse Hotel. I went there with new friends I met on the trip after returning from the island on the second day. The restaurant is like a barn with a good atmosphere both inside and outside. If you eat inside, you can enjoy a relaxing atmosphere with live music and beer. If you sit outside, you can enjoy the breeze and a beer in a different atmosphere. On Saturdays and Sundays, there is also a walking street in front of the restaurant. The food is good and the price is not too expensive. It is open from around 6 pm to midnight.

Grass Mountain

Let's take a look at some of the tourist attractions. I rode my motorbike out of town to Tambon Hong Aw, where Khao Ya is located. They say that if you don't visit Khao Ya, it's like you haven't been to Ranong. This is because Khao Ya is part of the Ranong provincial motto: "Isthmus of Kra, Khao Ya, Sweet Durian, Hot Springs, Real Pearls of Ranong." I recommend that if you come here, you should arrive early in the morning or just before sunset. It's best to avoid the midday sun, as there is no shade from trees. I wasted time trying to find a network signal to connect to Google Maps, but my network provider's signal was very weak when I was out of town. This caused me to drive around in circles quite a bit. But as I said, I arrived here around 11 am and ended up coinciding with the Cowboy Night Party, which was scheduled for the evening. I tried to find the popular spot, but I didn't know where it was. I wasn't sure if it was the area where they set up the stage. I looked around for a while, but I couldn't find a good angle. I decided to walk up to the top of Khao Ya for a view. It didn't take long to get there. Today the sun was especially hot. I tried to find a tree to hide under for some shade, but there was only grass. There were a few large trees scattered around, but they didn't provide much shade. I stood there taking pictures for a while, looking at the mountain on the opposite side where Hong Aw Waterfall is located. I could see the waterfall flowing down, but it didn't look like there was much water, so I decided not to stop there. I walked down and sat in the shade of a tent that was set up for the event. I could see the popular spot on the right side, but it was so hot at that time that I didn't bother taking any pictures. I decided to drive to Roti Nisra near Hong Aw Market instead.

Wat Ban Hangao

On the way from Khao Ya to the roti shop, there is a beautiful temple in Ranong province called Wat Ban Hongaw. According to history, it was originally just a place for monks to stay until Luang Pho Khia, a Thudong monk from Pattani, came to practice asceticism. The villagers were impressed and had faith, so they built a temple in 1987 and have been developing it ever since. This temple has a distinctive feature, which is the beautiful Ubosot and the principal Buddha image in the church, which is the largest tin ore Buddha image in the world. Behind the temple, there is a path leading to the viewpoint on the top of the hill called Phu Hongaw Dangdeng. From the top of the hill, you can see Khao Ya not far away. It is said that if you come to take pictures on this hilltop to Khao Ya during the sunset, you will get another angle that not many people come to take pictures of.

Phrang Hot Spring

After leaving Hongao Village, I drove back to Ban Phrang in Bang Rin Subdistrict. I decided to visit the hot springs in Hongao Waterfall National Park since the waterfall was dry. I didn't plan to soak in the hot springs because of the hot weather, but I paid the 20 baht entrance fee and walked in. I found two hot springs and then reached the exit. I asked someone nearby, and they told me there were more springs inside. I walked back and found two more, making a total of four. Only three of them were suitable for bathing. The other one was too hot. The springs were like bathtubs, and there were changing rooms and showers. There was also a stream nearby where children were playing because the water was cool. There wasn't much else to see, so I took some photos and left. I took off my backpack and waterproof bag and grabbed my water bottle. To my surprise, the bag was full of water! My camera and phone were soaked. Luckily, the water level wasn't too high, and the camera was fine. But my phone started showing signs of water damage. I took off the back cover and left it in the sun for a while. I knew I had to change my plans. I looked for a phone repair shop and luckily found a Lotus department store on the way to the city. I had my phone cleaned, which took almost two hours. I decided to explore the city before heading back.

Ranong City Pillar Shrine

After facing legal trouble over a phone incident, they stopped by the city pillar shrine to pay respects and seek good fortune before continuing their journey.

Replica of Ratnarangsan Palace

Situated at the foot of Ratnarangsarn Hill in Khao Niwet Subdistrict, Mueang Ranong District, the palace is located near the Ho Phra 9 Kechi and the provincial hall, approximately 100 meters from Luang Pho Chuen. Originally, the actual palace was not located here but rather where the current provincial hall stands. According to historical records, during King Rama V's visit to the Malay states, he stopped over in Ranong and stayed overnight. Phraya Ratana Setthi (Ko Sim Kong), the then governor of Ranong, built a pavilion on the central hill of the city to welcome the king. King Rama V, upon seeing the pavilion, remarked that it was as beautiful as a palace and bestowed upon it the name "Ratnarangsarn Palace" to honor the city of Ranong and the family of Phraya Ratana Setthi (the origin of the Na Ranong family). He also granted permission for it to be used as a government hall or for important ceremonies for the city. Only when the king visited again would it be used as a residence. During the reign of Phraya Damrong Sucharit Mahisorn Phakdi (Ko Yu Hi), the next governor of Ranong, the old building was demolished and replaced with a two-story brick and mortar building because the old wooden building had deteriorated. It was then renovated and used as the provincial hall. The new (replica) palace was built at the foot of Ratnarangsarn Hill based on photographs and a handwritten letter by King Rama V in his official journal. The construction budget came from a special edition of the Red Cross lottery. The new palace is made of teak and golden teak wood and consists of a group of large wooden houses connected by walkways. In front of the Ratnarangsarn Palace (replica) is a public park with a statue of a mine worker, signifying the mineral wealth of the area during that time.

Admission fees: Adults 50 THB, Children 20 THB. Open Monday-Friday 8:30 AM - 5:30 PM. Photography is prohibited inside the building.

I had researched beforehand and knew that photography was not allowed inside the building, so I followed the rules. However, when I was paying for my admission ticket, I was putting my camera away in my bag. The staff member must have seen me carrying multiple cameras and lenses, so they asked me what I was doing with them. I explained that I was a blogger and was doing a review of tourist attractions in Ranong. They then allowed me to take photos inside the building, probably to promote tourism. I would like to thank the staff member for this.

The building is a two-story wooden structure raised on high stilts. Its distinctive feature is the multi-layered overlapping roof in the Thai hip style, adorned with Burmese-style fretwork along the eaves. The building is divided into three sections: the audience hall, the royal residence, and the workroom. The first section, the audience hall, displays the royal throne, historical accounts, and royal activities during visits to the southern provinces. It also exhibits a model of the royal palace.

The second floor will showcase the living quarters of Her Majesty the Queen.

The third floor will serve as the residence of King Rama V, with furniture replicating that of the Wimanmek Palace.

The second floor features a wooden balcony with railings, offering panoramic views. The balcony floor is paved with terracotta tiles and covered by a roof. The arched doorways on all eight sides lead to an octagonal building that houses the office and historical artifacts of the Ranong governor. The octagonal tower stands approximately 17 meters tall, resembling the Wiset Chai Chan (Octagonal Pavilion) at Bang Pa-In Royal Palace in Ayutthaya Province.

Raksa Warin Hot Spring Public Park

After driving around all day, I decided to soak in a hot spring to relieve my fatigue before returning to Bangkok. The hot spring is located just outside the city, only 3 kilometers from Ratnarangsarn Palace. The area is surrounded by mountains, streams, and dense forests. It was quite crowded as it is also a public park, and locals often come here to soak in the hot spring in the evening. The hot spring here has a temperature of about 65 degrees Celsius and can be used for drinking, bathing, or treating diseases. After taking pictures of the three hot springs, which are called Father Spring, Mother Spring, and Daughter Spring, I looked for a place to soak myself, but I couldn't find any. There were only pools where locals could soak their feet. However, there was a private hot spring nearby where I could soak myself for 40 baht. I later learned that the free public hot spring was located further away. Since I was already there, I decided to soak in the private one.

Ranong Walking Street

It was late in the evening. We left the hot spring and went back to the city to find something to eat before taking the bus back to Bangkok at 8:30 pm. We returned the rental car in front of the Rueang Ras Hotel, which is located on Thanon Khon Din. This street is only open on Saturday evenings and is similar to other walking streets, with vendors selling local and regional food.

The motorbike rental shop is located next to the Rueang Ras Hotel. It is both a hostel and a motorbike rental shop called Ranong Backpacker Hostel. The motorbike rental price is 200-300 baht per day.

This bustling street is typically lined with numerous restaurants and bars, even without the presence of a walking street. The addition of the walking street further expands the culinary offerings, providing a plethora of options for visitors to explore and savor.

While strolling, I almost missed my ride. I retrieved my luggage from Luang Pho and hired a motorbike to take me to Somboon Tour, as it was closer than the bus terminal. If you're staying in Ranong's city center, I recommend getting off at the company's office rather than the bus terminal, which is further out. This concludes my review of Ranong. Farewell.

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